Originally published October 2015
Kathy Arnold headed for Philadelphia to explore the city and discover buzzy new neighborhoods and attractions.
“Philadelphia is all about the early days of the USA,” an American friend insists. “It’s the home of the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution. And that’s it. Right?” “Wrong,” I say. There are great art museums, great shopping and great restaurants … and much more. But what I love is the unexpected side of this 330-year-old city. Once considered ‘staid’, today’s Philly is funky and fun.
Sophisticated bars are now a feature in downtown, known as Center City. Take Village Whiskey, for instance. With its dark wood and long bar, it looks like a set for a 1930s film. ‘Prohibition’ cocktails, such as an Old Fashioned, are matched by ‘Repeal’ concoctions, such as a sassy Ginger Rogers, with gin, sparkling rosé wine, lemon, rhubarb bitters and – what else, but – ginger syrup? Nearby, a basement door labelled ‘Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co’ leads to the speakeasy-style Franklin Bar. The drinks, however, are pure 21st century. Temporary Phase is a zingy blend of tequila, mezcal, amaro nonino, blackberry and long hot pepper.
One of the city’s newer murals salutes the Philies baseball team
The best way to explore Philadelphia is on foot and wherever I go, there is public art. No city has more, and murals are a speciality. In more than three decades, the number has grown to more than 3,600, with others added every year. One of the newest celebrates the Phillies, the local baseball team. Bright and colourful, the painting includes star players from its 132-year history, loyal fans and even the team mascot, wittilynamed the Phanatic.
Old City is home to Philadelphia’s most famous sights – Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell and the National Constitution Center. But steps away from the queues of visitors are cobbled streets lined with shops, cafés and galleries. Having checked out the fashions of yesteryear in Briar Vintage, and beautifully-crafted works in the Center for Art in Wood, I order up ice cream at the Franklin Fountain. The name acknowledges Benjamin Franklin. As well as being a philosopher, statesman and inventor, he was an ice-cream maker. Who knew?
For something completely different, it has to be the Eastern State Penitentiary. Opened in 1829, its aim was to make wrong-doers penitent. But its cruel system of strict isolation (Charles Dickens reckoned the solitary cells for each prisoner “could drive men insane”) never produced the desired results; by 1929, when Al Capone was one of the inmates, it was a ‘normal’ prison. After it closed, the complex was opened to visitors. Take a tour to learn more. In the daytime, the clanging of the gates is chilling enough; at night, the ‘Terror Behind the Walls’ experience ups the ante, with ghosts, prisoners and paranormal activity.
