By Paul Wade
When friends ask me whether New England is good for a summer holiday, my answer is: “Yes!” And it has been for a very long time. Back in 1770, when New Hampshire was still a British colony, Governor John Wentworth built a summer mansion near Lake Winnipesaukee (lakesregion.org). Where he went, others followed. That spot is now Wolfeboro, the self-proclaimed “Oldest Summer Resort in America”.
But every New England state offers lakes and beaches, mountains and islands – plus a Colonial past that remains part of everyday life. Think village greens and historic taverns, covered wooden bridges and photogenic churches. On the other hand, the region is bang up to date, with stylish restaurants, funky hotels and contemporary art in museums and galleries.
Then, there is the weather. From Memorial Day (late May) to Labor Day (early September), days are hot, nights are balmy and sunshine is endless. All that is perfect for being outdoors. Get out on the water; hike in the hills; take in mountain-top vistas; eat lobster by the sea; listen to music under the stars. Best of all, there is always something new or an anniversary to celebrate in New England!
ON AND UNDER THE WATER
The Atlantic washes the shores of five of New England’s six states, so the maritime tradition runs deep. That includes a passion for competitive sailing. Newport, Rhode Island, was home to the America’s Cup from 1930 to 1983. No wonder it boasts of being the ‘Sailing Capital of the World’. Discover more in the striking new high-tech Sailing Museum (thesailingmuseum.org). Find out if you have what it takes to go racing by having a go on interactive tests. For a real treat, sail across Narragansett Bay on a two-hour cruise aboard an America’s Cup yacht (americascupcharters.com).
But there are many ways to enjoy the water. On Rhode Island’s Blackstone River you can rent easy-to-paddle kayaks and canoes from the new Blackstone River Expeditions (rivertourblackstone.com). Spot wildlife galore in the marshes, from osprey and egrets to painted turtles, basking on logs.
Have you ever been inside a submarine? Test your nerves on a tour of USS Nautilus, the world’s first nuclear sub. Now 68 years old and fully restored, she is back at the Submarine Force Library and Museum in Groton, Connecticut (grotonct.com). Use the new app to access the virtual reality experiences. Great for the whole family, and it’s free!
WILD ABOUT NEW ENGLAND
The stars at night are big and bright, deep in the heart of Northern Maine! There are only 16 official International Dark Sky Sanctuaries in the world – and now Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument (nps.gov/kaww) is one of them. Moose and bear live in this forested wilderness, 90 minutes north of Bangor. Go hiking by day, star gaze at night. On the edge of the national park, stay at the comfy Mount Chase Lodge (mtchaselodge.com). Borrow a canoe. When darkness falls, paddle out onto the lake; lie back and look up at the starry, starry night. A magical experience.
But, on well-marked trails, there are great places to hike all over the region. Stride out for a few hours, a full day or a week. Or cycle. The recently completed Lamoille Valley Rail Trail (lvrt.org) is New England’s longest, running for 93 car-free miles between St Johnsbury and Swanton in northern Vermont. There are B&Bs along the way and, with e-bike rentals widely available, you don’t have to be a fitness fanatic to negotiate the rolling terrain.
WHERE PAST MEETS PRESENT
In 1620, the Mayflower anchored off what is now Plymouth, Massachusetts (seeplymouth.com). Times were challenging for the English settlers, but they survived. Step into their world at Plimoth Patuxet, a must-see living history museum (plimoth.org). Tour Mayflower II, the replica of their ship; explore the “English village” to see how they lived. And chat to descendants of their neighbours, the Wampanoags, whose lives were changed.
The Pilgrims’ arrival kickstarted the transatlantic migration, and 2023 sees more 400th anniversaries. Portsmouth, New Hampshire (portsmouthnh400.org) is already partying big time. The summer festivities include jazz, reggae and gospel concerts, a Tall Ships Parade of Sail, fairs and more. Board the schooners; go for a sail. The story of Portsmouth is told at Strawbery Banke (strawberybanke.org), yet another first-rate museum. Authentic houses set the stage; interpreters provide the plot, from the 1600s through to the 1950s. Only 15 miles inland, Dover, New Hampshire (dover400.org) is also marking its quadricentennial, with historical re-enactments, parades and festivals.
In Massachusetts, Gloucester (gloucesterma400.org), founded by English fishermen in 1623 and busy ever since, is America’s oldest seaport. Join the 400th festivities, especially in August. During “Gloucester Fisheries Heritage Month”, enjoy everything from cannon firings and net weaving to cooking workshops with fishermen’s wives. More coastal pleasures include whale watching, sailing on a heritage schooner, the freshest seafood – and sandy beaches.
BOSTON: SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW
When Boston (meetboston.com) was founded in 1630, King Charles I was on the throne of England. Today, as you walk through the city, reminders of the past are everywhere. Take The Old North Church (oldnorth.com), which celebrates its 300th this year. It played a famous role back in 1775, when lighted lanterns in the steeple signalled to Colonists that British troops were on the move. Next day, when the two sides met, shots were fired – and the American Revolution began.
But there’s more to Boston than historic sites. The city has long been a hub of creativity and invention. Discover more on the new self-guided Innovation Trail, whose mobile-friendly website (theinnovationtrail.org) links sites of world-changing discoveries, from anaesthetic and the telephone to Moderna’s COVID-19 vaccine.
In fact, Boston is the world’s top biotech city, thanks to universities, such as Harvard and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. And, if you ever wondered what ‘biotech’ really means, let alone AI and genetics, head for the new MIT Museum (mitmuseum.mit.edu), which explains all to science – and non-science – buffs.
But everyone can enjoy Boston’s harbour. Great fun is getting out on the water on a Boston Harbor Islands Lighthouse Tour (bostonharborislands.org). As well as a fabulous view of the city skyline, you visit Boston Light, which first signalled to sailors in 1716. That makes it America’s oldest lighthouse.
But there are 44 more on the new Massachusetts Lighthouse Trail (visitma.com/lighthousetrail) that stretches from Cape Ann, north of Boston, to Cape Cod and the Islands in the southeast.
As the Gateway to New England gears up for its own 400th the list of ‘new’ and ‘revamped’ increases. Later this year, View Boston (viewboston.com), on the 52nd floor of the Prudential Building, will provide an unbeatable panorama for the ultimate selfie, as well as a bistro and sunset cocktails.
Unveiled on the Martin Luther King federal holiday weekend back in January, The Embrace is a massive 22-ft tall bronze sculpture on Boston Common, America’s first public park. The entwined arms reference the Reverend Martin Luther King Jr and his wife, Coretta, who met and fell in love here in the city in the 1950s (kingboston.org).
HERE FOR THE BEER; THERE FOR NET-ZERO ENERGY
Raise a glass to Newport, Rhode Island’s White Horse Tavern – this year it celebrates its 350th birthday as America’s oldest pub! And then salute New Haven, Connecticut’s Hotel Marcel – it has become America’s first net-zero energy hotel by adding 1,000 solar panels which provide 100% of the electricity for lighting, heating and cooling.
RIDE THE RAILS
Amtrak (amtrak.com) is great for seeing New England without a car. From New York City, the Ethan Allen Express to Vermont now runs all the way to Burlington. In New Hampshire, lovingly preserved historic trains offer scenic outings. New are the Hobo Railroad’s (hoborr.com) Rail Bike Adventures. Hop on a four-seater cart at Laconia Railroad Station and pedal your way for five miles along the rails, through the woods and along lakes. A really scenic workout!
FAMILY FUN
It may be a century old but Quassy Amusement and Waterpark in Middlebury, CT is still entertaining families with such thrills as its new Rocket Rapids, Connecticut’s first water coaster (quassy.com). And kids love the vast Funzone in Maine’s Wild Acadia Camping Resort (wildacadia.com) with its waterslides, climbing wall, zip line and Forest Walk ropes course.
COMFY IN THE COUNTRY
Glamping just gets better and better. In Vermont, the new ‘glampground’ at Parker Hill Farm (parkerhillfarm.com) near Springfield offers luxury tents with king-size beds, ensuite bathrooms and mini kitchens. Fish for trout in the pond; play horseshoes; relax round the firepit. Further north, in Stowe, is Tälta Lodge Bluebird (bluebirdhotels.com), where chic comforts are matched by activities, from mountain biking to fly fishing. Close to sandy beaches, stay in iconic Airstream travel trailers (caravans) at AutoCamp Cape Cod (autocamp.com). The posh interiors include kitchenettes and sitting areas; outside are fire pits with grill tops.
GET THE SCOOP!
New Englanders love ice cream, particularly from family-run creameries, such as Herrell’s (herrells.com) in Northampton, Massachusetts. This year, lick a cone in tribute to 50 years of the smoosh-in®: homemade ice cream with scrunched-up cookies and candies. Order your favourite personal combo, perhaps cookies ‘n’ cream; watch it being mixed before your very eyes. Yum!
THE MAINE EVENTS
Maine’s new Oyster Trail (maineoystertrail.com) helps you slurp your way from farms and shuck trucks to raw bars. Sign up for the Maine Oyster Passport; the more you eat, the more prizes you win! In an area once mined for gems and minerals, Bethel’s new Maine Mineral & Gem Museum (mainemineralmuseum.org) also displays specimens of rock from the moon and, at 32 pounds, the largest chunk of Mars on earth.
