COLORADO MAY BE WORLD RENOWNED AS A WINTER SKI DESTINATION, but the fun doesn’t stop when the snow melts, says award-winning British journalist Aaron Millar, who now makes his home in Louisville, north of Denver. In fact, he says, summer in Colorado offers all the thrills of winter, minus the freeze, from Old West heritage and Native American history to hot springs, cool mountains and hip towns brimming with craft beer and farm-to-table food.
And there are surprises too; the Rockies are rightly famous, but the Centennial State also has the tallest sand dunes in North America, the highest cog railway in the world, and some of the best preserved dinosaur fossils in the country. As the days warm, ski resorts heat up, too, with high-altitude, lift-serviced hiking and downhill biking; festivals come to town with music, food and art; and family attractions spring to life like wildflowers on the mountain slopes. The snow may be gone, but in Colorado the party’s just beginning.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS – A MOUNTAINTOP EXPERIENCE AND MORE
The great outdoors is a way of life here, not a destination. With 300 days sunshine a year, more 14ers (mountain peaks over 14,000 feet) than any other state and world-class hiking, biking, camping and backpacking, the choice of summer adventures is as vast as the Rockies themselves. Here are three not to miss:
ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK
The summer of 2016 marked the 100th anniversary of America’s National Parks Service and the Rocky Mountains are its crown jewel – 415 square miles of alpine lakes, jagged peaks and glacier valleys filled with bald eagles, coyotes and moose. Watch the sunrise from the 14,259ft summit of Longs Peak; wind around the vertiginous 12,831ft-high Trail Ridge Road, the highest paved road in America and one of the most scenic drives in the world; and keep your eyes peeled for big-horn sheep, rutting elk and curious black bears. Estes Park, the nearest town, has a party atmosphere all summer long, with outdoor concerts, festivals and family-friendly attractions.
DINOSAUR NATIONAL MONUMENT
The best way to see the swirling, red-rock canyons and rich fossil beds of Dinosaur National Monument – a high-desert wilderness in the north-west corner of the state – is from the water. Following part of the 1869 journey taken by Major John Wesley Powell along the Green River during his pioneering exploration of the American west, the ‘Gates of Lodore’ rafting trip passes through some of the most inaccessible parts of the park and is widely recognized as one of the best white-water adventures in the country. Camp on sandy riverside beaches each night and discover petroglyphs, fossils and the ruins of ancient settlements along the way.
GREAT SAND DUNES NATIONAL PARK
This otherworldly landscape of sweeping skyscraper-high sand dunes, set against the stunning backdrop of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, feels more like the Sahara than the United States – 30 square miles of golden desert, including the 750-high tallest dune in North America. They may be hard to hike up, but they’re irresistible to slide down, especially on sand-boards and sand-sledges, which can be rented nearby. In summer, snow-melt rushes down from the mountains to the foot of the dune field, creating a swimming river that would rival any beach in the world. Camp inside the park for sublime sunrises, sunsets and some of the best stargazing you’ll ever see.
THE WILD WEST – FROM GHOST TOWNS TO NATIVE AMERICAN CLIFF DWELLINGS
From ghost towns and old mining trains to rodeos, ranches and ancient Native American cliff dwellings – Colorado’s gunslingers may be long gone, but the spirit of the Wild West is still alive and kicking.
HISTORIC DURANGO
Founded in 1880 by the Denver and Rio Grande Railway, this former gold- and silver-mining town, in the south-west of the state, is an ideal base to discover Colorado’s pioneer heritage. Downtown is filled with historic hotels, museums and galleries. Just outside, there are ghost towns, mine tours and one of the biggest and most beautiful lakes in the state, Vallecito. But the real draw is the chance to ride the vintage, steam-powered Durango Silverton Narrow Gauge Railway through the spectacular wilderness and remote canyons of the San Juan National Forest – just like the cowboys, miners and settlers of the Old West did more than a century ago.
MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK
Inhabited by the Ancestral Pueblo or Anasazi people for more than 700 years, between 600AD and 1300AD, this collection of spectacular cliff dwellings – and more than 4,000 archeological sites – is one of the best-preserved examples of Native American culture in the country.
GREELEY STAMPEDE
From the end of June to the 4th of July weekend, the farming town of Greeley, 55 miles north-east of Denver on the edge of the Great Plains, transforms into one of the biggest and best rodeos in the country – the Greeley Stampede. Featuring pro-bull riding, demolition derby, country music concerts and more yee-haws and cowboy boots than you could throw a Stetson at, this is a bucking bronco of a party and one of the best examples of contemporary cowboy culture in the state. www.greeleystampede.org
SOME LIKE IT HOT – COLORADO’S THERAPEUTIC WATERS
Native Americans have been soaking in the healing waters of Colorado’s hot springs for centuries. And now there’s a new way to enjoy them, too. The Historic Hot Springs Loop is a 340-mile driving route, launching this summer, which links together some of the Rockies’ most-stunning scenery and history with five of the region’s coolest hot springs towns or counties. Here are three to sample:
STEAMBOAT SPRINGS
One of Colorado’s most-popular mountain towns offers summer rodeos, horseback riding and some of the best family fun in the Rockies, including the Old Town Hot Spring, with its two enormous 230ft waterslides, water play-park and aquatic rock climbing wall. For something more serene, head seven miles out of town to Strawberry Hot Springs. Deep in a riverside canyon and surrounded by aspen groves and thick pine forest, this is a secluded, back-to-nature soak in one of the most beautiful bathing spots in the state.
GLENWOOD SPRINGS
Located at the confluence of the Colorado and Roaring Fork rivers, this historic resort town is an ideal base for rafting, fishing, canoeing and all manner of water fun. Glenwood Hot Springs, at 405 feet long and 100 feet wide, is the largest mineral hot spring pool in the world and a former favourite of Al Capone and Teddy Roosevelt, while the Yampah Spa’s legendary vapour cave is renowned for its healing properties. Considered a sacred place by the Ute Indians – and originally used for purification rituals – the spa’s interconnected underground caverns are filled with mineral-rich steam that filters up from geothermal channels under the cave floor.
OURAY
Known as the Switzerland of America for its idyllic location in the heart of the San Juan Mountains, Ouray is a good stop to soak up some Wild West culture alongside your mineral dip. New in town this summer is a True Grit walking tour of locations from the classic Western film, which was shot here, as well as a rare chance to jump in the saddle and join local cowboys, from Bach’lers Stable, on an authentic cattle drive across the lush valleys and rolling hills of Colorado’s western slope. The hot springs in town offer one of the few naturally sulphur-free, and, therefore, odourless, soaks, with a variety of public and private hotel spas to choose from. www.ouraycolorado.com
Also in the Colorado Hot Springs Loop are Pagosa Springs, home to the world’s deepest hot spring and full of other activity options, including boating, tubing and paddle boarding down the San Juan River , and the various hot springs and types of accommodation in Chaffee County.
ROCKY MOUNTAIN HIGH – THE SUMMER ATTRACTIONS OF SKI RESORTS
Colorado’s ski towns may be famous for winter fun, but the thrills don’t stop in the summer when most resorts keep a few lifts running, meaning easy access to some of the finest, high-elevation hiking and biking in the country. With their great deals and a range of festivals, cultural events and family-friendly activities, off-season ski towns may be the Rockies’ best-kept secret.
CRESTED BUTTE
Not only is this one of the best places in the country for mountain biking – with more than 700 miles of pristine single track – it’s also the wildflower capital of Colorado. Come in mid-July when the greatest variety of flowers are in bloom – blue columbines, red Indian paintbrushes and bright yellow sunflowers – and a week-long wildflower festival takes over the town. Then head out on two wheels to explore the rainbow-coloured fields.
BRECKENRIDGE
In summer, this hip former mining town is ideally decked out for kids. From Alpine coasters and super-slides to zip-lines and summer dog sledding, pretty much everything that makes children laugh, scream and squeal with delight can be found here. Great breweries, restaurants and a new Breckenridge Wine Classic festival debuting this September are destined to keep mum and dad happy too.
ASPEN
As the movie stars and millionaires leave Aspen’s snowy slopes, a range of arts and cultural festivals come to town. From June’s Food and Wine Classic – a superstar on the culinary scene – and the summer-long Aspen Music Festival to literary fiestas, comedy series and rodeos, Aspen in summer is a feast for the eyes, ears, stomach and soul.
TELLURIDE
Summer in Telluride is all about music. From bluegrass and jazz festivals to the legendary three-day Blues and Brews bonanza, Telluride deserves its reputation as the festival capital of the West. Other summer parties include a spectacular balloon festival, a slightly-bizarre mushroom festival, and one of the most-respected independent film festivals in the country.
THE FRONT RANGE – BIG CITY AND TOWN DELIGHTS
Stretching across the flat. north-eastern part of the state – from the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains to the western tip of the Great Plains – Colorado’s Front Range has the state’s best weather, the coolest cities and many of its top attractions and events.
FORT COLLINS
Located 62 miles north of Denver and offering more microbreweries than anywhere else in the state, Fort Collins is home to the annual June Colorado Brewer’s Festival and to more restaurants per capita than almost anywhere else in the country, many of them featuring award-winning farm-to-table cuisine. There’s also a vibrant downtown arts and music scene, easy access to the mountains and the chance to ride the swirling rapids of the Poudre River right on its doorstep.
LOVELAND
Just 13 miles south of Fort Collins, Loveland takes pride in being both a gateway to the Rocky Mountain National Park and a visual and performing arts centre. Its streets and public parks and gardens are crammed with about 300 sculptures and other pieces of art. There are major annual exhibitions and sales of art and monthly first-Friday evening events that feature gallery openings, live music and restaurant specials. Outdoor summer concerts are held around a picturesque lagoon and there’s live theatre and other performances at the 1920s landmark Rialto, formerly a silent-movie palace. Cashing in on its name, Loveland also stages a huge Valentine’s weekend festival and encourages people to have their Valentine cards sent from here … about 200,000 took up the offer at the last count. For those who want to experience the cowboy/girl lifestyle, the nearby Sylvan Dale Guest Ranch is the closest to Denver International Airport.
BOULDER
This cool college town, right on the edge of the Rocky Mountains and only 26 miles north of Denver, is the perfect blend of urbanism and outdoor living. In summer, its pedestrianised high street is filled with street performers, acrobats and musicians. There are more than 140 miles of hiking trails starting from the city limits, bike paths throughout town, tubing down the Boulder creek, and one of the most vibrant farmer’s markets in the country.
COLORADO SPRINGS
Just 67 miles south of Denver, this is the perfect base for some of the best attractions on the Front Range. Take the Pikes Peak Cog Railway, the highest cog railway in the world, to the 14,114 ft top of Pikes Peak for one of the most spectacular views in the state; tour the US Air Force Academy; marvel at the recently-reopened Seven Falls; tip-toe across the Royal Gorge suspension bridge, at 956 feet, the world’s highest; and visit the appropriately-named Garden of the Gods – surely the most beautiful city park in the world, filled with natural red rock spires, pinyon forests and unsurpassed views into the Rockies. Known as America’s Olympic City because it’s home to 24 Olympic governing bodies as well as training camps, Colorado Springs will have another attraction in 2018 when its Olympics Museum opens.
DENVER – AMERICA’S MILE HIGH CITY
Any visit to Colorado should include at least a short visit to Denver, the state’s capital, largest city and international gateway. Recently ranked as the best place to live in the United States by US News and World Report, it’s friendly, filled with art and culture, lively with both indoor and outdoor summer activities and framed by jaw-dropping views of the Rocky Mountains. Make sure to visit the gold-domed State Capitol, the stunning Denver Art Museum and the History Colorado Center. For local colour, there’s Larimer Square, Denver’s heart when it was a rip-roaring Gold Rush boom town, and for wining and dining, the LoDo (Lower Downtown) neighbourhood. Families will have fun in the Elitch Gardens theme park, Aquarium and Denver Zoo, and for shopping, there’s the central pedestrianised 16th Street Mall and, away from the town centre, the elegant Cherry Creek Mall with its more than 160 shops and services plus the surrounding Cherry Creek Shopping District. The Denver Performing Arts Center is one of America’s largest and just a few miles outside town, the Red Rocks Amphitheatre, carved from towering red cliffs, has hosted everyone from the Beatles to John Denver and is rightly on the bucket list of music fans around the world.