These 5 small, family-run restaurants in New England wave the flag for the farm-to-table movement. Here are six of my well-priced favourites.
CONNECTICUT – FIREBOX, HARTFORD
With bare-brick walls and plain wooden tables, the focus is on the food. Chef Edward Jones is in tune with New England’s four seasons, preferring “the flavour of a fresh, red, ripe tomato from the garden in late July to the flavour of a store-bought tomato in the middle of January”. Charcuterie is home-made, cheeses are local. For dessert, try smoked-apple cobbler with a caraway seed crumble. Firebox is located at 539 Broad Street in Hartford, CT.
MAINE – EVENTIDE OYSTER CO, PORTLAND
One of the USA’s up-and-coming cities, Portland is a hot foodie destination. A new take on the classic American oyster bar, Eventide features ten varieties of Maine oyster alone! Out-of-state molluscs are labelled as ‘From away’. The traditional New England lobster roll is given an Asian twist – a Chinese bun, stuffed with warm lobster meat that has been pan-finished in brown butter vinaigrette. Eventide Oyster is located at 86 Middle Street in Portland, ME.
MASSACHUSETTS – STAGECOACH TAVERN, SHEFFIELD
Deep in the Berkshire Hills, this 200-year-old tavern is surrounded by small organic farms. As well as imaginative pub fare, the main courses range from duck confit, with gnocchi, blackberries and parmesan to grilled pork chops over butternut squash purée, roasted Brussels sprouts and chimichurri. Inventive vegetarian options might include mushroom and spinach risotto, with porcini mushroom and roasted red peppers. Stagecoach Tavern is located at 864 Undermountain Road, on Route 41 in Sheffield, MA.
NEW HAMPSHIRE – THE WHITE MOUNTAIN CIDER COMPANY, BARTLETT
In a century-old farmhouse, Chef Teresa Stearns’ restaurant is popular with locals and visitors alike. The Red Barn next door houses a deli and country store. Order quality sandwiches and burgers by day; for dinner, tuck in to crab cakes partnered by apple-fennel salad, then short ribs braised in a red wine sauce, on a parsnip purée. Dessert? Go for the hot-cider doughnuts with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream. The White Mountain Cider Company is located at 207 Rt 302, Bartlett, NH.
VERMONT – THYME, WHITE RIVER JUNCTION
Just off Routes 89 and 91, the informal Thyme proves that good food doesn’t need glamorous surroundings. At lunchtime, order a beet salad with baby kale, herbed ricotta, radishes, orange supremes and a strawberry lavender vinaigrette, or a delicious Proscuitto Sandwich. For dinner, meat loaf has a modern twist – sesame pork and ginger(,) with a red wine sauce and mashed potatoes. Grandma would be amazed! Thyme is located at 85 North Main Street, White River Junction, VT.
